Pressure wash to thoroughly clean all surfaces prior to application when any of the above conditions exist. And the use of an appropriate detergent cleaner. Do not over pressure wash the bare concrete as you can drive water into the concrete and it will take longer to dry. If going directly over surface No other coating on it make sure the it is completely dry. If the concrete is damp to the touch it is not dry. Use a fan to move the moisture Surfaces must be dry and free of anything that could adversely affect the adhesion to the surface.
If going over other products such as epoxy it will need to be etched or roughed up with a grinder or sandpaper so Dura-Rubber can bond properly. Although it may look dry on the surface there actually is a lot of moisture still inside. Moisture content depends on the relative humidity.
Cure time will depend on water-cement ratio. A simple test take an inch by inch clear plastic sheet and put it over the concrete and seal it on all four sides. After 16 hours, if any moisture or darkening of the concrete surface is found, the concrete is too wet for coating. Make sure the sheet does not come in contact with direct sunlight.
You can also use a moisture meter. Metal: We recommend to clean with a good degreaser rinse well when dry wipe down with acetone before application. On new metal be sure to remove oil from manufacturing.
Epoxies: If very smooth rough up with grinder or sandpaper. Clean with acetone before application. TPO: Clean with acetone before application.
Apply one thick coat of Dura-Rubber embed fabric in coating and apply one thick coat on top while the base coat is still wet. Application on new wood, concrete, or ferrous metals should follow the same guidelines as repairs with all seams, joints, imperfections, or penetrations, inside or outside corners, pans, thresholds, or surfaces edges or transitions treated with a coat of , embedded reinforcement cloth and a top-coat of prior to additional coats or final sprayed membrane.
This preparation technique will add mil thickness and strength that is in addition to the additional coats or final top-coat - thickness determined by below Application Rate:. Application Rate: See application chart above.
Rates of Application are typical: Its not the number of coats, it is the thickness of the membrane. If the coverage says to use 5 gallons use all the five gallons. Drying Times: Hours Drying times are typical: See below Dura-Rubber can be sprayed with an airless sprayer using a. Make sure when you apply, all your membrane terminations must be above the water line and dry if no other coating on the concrete.
Do not not thin with water if you need to thin use the propylene glycol extender it will also extend the working time. However, the rubber is still going through a very important process called "Vulcanization" - this is the process where the rubber becomes one single membrane and can contain water on a continuous basis. The process of "Vulcanization" takes days. A good test is splash some water on the membrane and if it turns white it is not dry if it lightens it is not cured.
You do not want to expose coating to chemicals or continuous water saturation until the vulcanization process is complete.
If you have a question about your specific applications please do not hesitate to contact us either via the phone, e-mail or our live online support chat. We are here to help! If the product is not properly cured and you fill with water, you will get little gas bubbles.
Optimal vs. The coating will remain gummy and gel-like until the RH lowers to an acceptable level long enough for it to solidify. However, because the coating has not been allowed to "level" properly, the texture will remain wavy and otherwise unacceptable.
Temperatures Work With Humidity, Too. One tip is to time your application so that temperatures are on the rise--several hours before the day's peak temperature, which is usually in the late afternoon. High humidity will slow dry time. You need to build in a head-start by beginning hours before you think it is time to begin: Even though the temperature was OK at the time of application, the coating can stop coalescing. This is a great way to protect your tools, give them a personalized look, provide some form of insulation, and increase the grip.
Share photos of your newly coated tools! Here I have an older set of needle nose pliers which I will be replacing the rubber coating on and as you can see, the existing rubber coating is in rough shape. Remove the existing rubber coating, sometimes you can slide these off, other times use a dull knife to score the rubber handle and then peal it off.
The dull knife will reduce the risk of scratching the coating underneath which helps protect the pliers against rust, then peal the rubber off. This will remove any contaminants which can cause adhesion problems or prevent sealing which will allow moisture in, eventually causing rust.
If your handles are rusty, this rust must be removed, otherwise it will eventually worsen under the coating. The pliers will need to be hung up, so have something ready before we start dipping. Use a heat gun on the handles to dry up any moisture if any which can be trapped underneath and cause corrosion in the future.
Depending on the width of the pliers, you maybe able to coat both at the same time or only each individually. Mix the coating accordingly, be sure to read the instructions on the side of the can depending on what coating you are working with.
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